When is it better to plant raspberries in the middle lane - in spring or autumn
The favorite berry of many gardeners has rightfully become raspberry for its taste and unpretentiousness in care. They plant it at different times of the year. Most are planting in the spring, but the fall has significant advantages. We will tell you in detail about the agricultural technology of raspberries in the country in the middle lane.
The content of the article
- The best varieties of raspberries for central Russia
- Agricultural technology of raspberries in the country in the middle lane
- When remontant raspberries bear fruit in the middle lane
The best varieties of raspberries for central Russia
The raspberry tree will give a good harvest if it is fully cared for. But first of all, you need to decide on a suitable variety of berries.
The variety is highly resistant to fungal diseases and pests. The bush is spreading and tall - it grows up to 2 m in height. The berries are oblong, dense, weighing from 4 to 12 g. During the season, up to 5 kg are removed from the bush. Bears fruit annually in mid-summer. In the absence of proper care, the plant damages the raspberry beetle and spider mite.
Slightly spreading bushes, erect stems, sparse thorns. Berries are oval-conical, weighing 3-3.2 g. Productivity - 2.2-2.5 kg per bush. The cultivar is resistant to anthracnose and spider mites, but prone to purple spot and mycoplasma. It tolerates frost and drought well.
The berries are cone-shaped, weighing up to 11 g. From one bush, the yield reaches 3 kg. Fruiting from August to the second half of September. Among the disadvantages are low transportability of fruits and a large number of thorns on the shoots. Differs in good resistance to drought, frost and disease, with the exception of fungal.
The berries are round-conical in shape, dense and juicy, weighing up to 5 g. Productivity - up to 2 kg per bush. Fruiting during July, the absence of thorns makes it easier to harvest. Not afraid of frost and drought. Resistant to fungal diseases, but with high humidity it can suffer from rust and powdery mildew.
The berries are yellow in color with a light honey taste, the weight of one fruit reaches 8 g. They do not crumble for a long time, but they are poorly stored after removal. Up to 10 kg are harvested from one bush. The variety bears fruit from early July to mid-August. It is highly resistant to diseases and pests, but it can get sick due to too cold water and its excess, as well as pest larvae left in the ground from previously planted crops.
Red berries of a blunt-conical shape, with a delicate sweet-sour taste and a weight of 2 g, are distinguished by a wide range of applications: they are frozen, consumed fresh, cocktails, desserts and jams are prepared. The variety bears fruit from mid-July until frost. Up to 3.5 kg are harvested from one bush. The plant is resistant to frost and drought, but with excessive moisture there is a risk of spreading fungal diseases. The variety is susceptible to attack by spider mites, aphids, beetles and caterpillars.
Berries are round-conical in shape, average weight - 2.5-3 g. Excellent for freezing and harvesting. Harvest - up to 2 kg per bush - raspberry brings in early August. The variety is not afraid of frost, resistant to fungal diseases, but vulnerable to shoot gall midge, spider mite, overgrowth and purple spot.
Berries weighing up to 5 g, bright yellow with a pinkish tinge, have a rich taste with sourness, keep their shape and do not crumble for a long time. The yield reaches 3 kg per bush. The variety bears fruit in July and from late August until frost. It is resistant to diseases and pests, but does not tolerate severe cold and excessive drought.
The berries are very large, weighing up to 14 g, have a pleasant rich taste. Raspberries have a long fruiting period - from June to September - and a high yield - up to 8 kg per bush. Poorly tolerates transportation. Not afraid of drought and cold. The variety is resistant to viral, but vulnerable to fungal diseases. It is attacked by spider mites, shoot gall midges and weevils.
It is interesting:
Agricultural technology of raspberries in the country in the middle lane
When planting seedlings, you must have complete information about the peculiarities of growing the variety in the region and caring for the crop.
The method of planting raspberries depends on how many bushes you plan to place on your site. For a small amount, the pit method is better, and for a large amount, the trench method.
Hole landing method:
- The pits are made measuring 25-30 cm in depth and width.
- Drainage is laid in the base with a layer of 3-4 cm.
- Nutrient soil is laid in each hole in a layer of 2-3 cm.
- Before planting, the pits are watered.
Trench landing method:
- The depth of each trench is 30 cm.
- The soil is laid on the bottom with a layer of 2-3 cm.
- The trench is watered with water - 2 liters per 1 sq. m.
As a preventive measure for the appearance of pests, low cutting and the removal of fertile stems are used. Regularly thin out dense growth and prune shoots.
When is it better to plant raspberries - in spring or autumn
Both spring and autumn planting is possible, but the latter is more preferable, since the seedlings are much more comfortable at this time of the year.
The most successful period is from mid-September to late October. The main plus of planting at this time is that the seedlings will begin to grow with the onset of warmth.
In spring, raspberries are planted when the ground has already warmed up enough. This time usually occurs at the end of April. The melt water will provide the raspberries with the nutrients they need, but the high temperatures can prevent the plant from taking root in its new location.
Site selection and soil preparation
For planting raspberries, sites with wet soil are allocated without stagnant water. The southern part of the fence is suitable for this, if it is not shaded. Landing on the hills is undesirable - it is too dry there - and in the lowlands, where raspberries will start to rot due to accumulated moisture.
Do not plant it in the soil where potatoes, eggplants, strawberries and tomatoes previously grew. Neighborhoods with these crops are also best avoided. You cannot plant raspberries between fruit trees - the roots of the plants will interfere with each other. But in place of legumes, cereals, zucchini, cucumbers and onions with garlic, the berry will feel comfortable.
The soil is needed with a drainage layer that will prevent waterlogging. Clay soil is diluted with sand, peat and compost. Ash, chalk and dolomite flour are added to the acidic soil.
For autumn planting, the soil begins to be prepared in a month, with spring planting - in autumn.
Attention! Do not forget to remove any remaining roots, debris and fertilizer from the soil before planting.
Raspberry care in the middle lane
They water the bushes, focusing on the climate and the current weather, since in the middle lane, due to frequent rains, watering may not be required for weeks.
After watering, the soil is shallowly loosened, most often the procedure is replaced by mulching. Moisture remains under the mulch for a short time and no crust forms. Thanks to this, the plants do not rot, and the weeds do not have time to germinate.
Since the bushes are leaning under the weight of the harvest, they need to be tied up.The most popular method is to pull the wire along the row of plantings and tie the shoots to it.
Watering and feeding
The bushes are watered at the root with rain or settled water. For raspberries, drip or regular irrigation into the grooves is suitable. It is important to monitor the condition of the soil, because raspberries do not tolerate both drought and waterlogging. At the beginning of autumn, watering is stopped - the plant has enough natural precipitation.
Before the first top dressing, a ditch is dug around the bush, where fertilizers are applied.
Reference. Raspberries respond well to organic and nitrogen feedingas well as urea.
On average, during the year, 1 sq. m make:
- 5-6 kg of organic fertilizers - in autumn and spring with a layer of 7 cm, covering with soil by 2 cm;
- 20 g of ammonium nitrate - 2/3 of the norm in spring and leftovers in summer;
- 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium salt - after harvest.
Double pruning by the Sobolev method
The author of this method is A.G. Sobolev. Pruning spend twice. A simple method allows you to double the yield without complicated agricultural techniques.
It is recommended to use this method when planting new plantings or renovating old ones. It is better to provide a large distance between the bushes. This will help to avoid high planting density and interlacing of branches.
The first pruning is carried out in late May - early June, no later than the 10th. Shoots are pruned with a height of 0.7-1 m. This gives abundant shoots and stops growing upwards.
The second pruning is carried out the following year, in the spring, when the leaves bloom. The lateral shoots that have grown after the first pruning are pinched by 5-15 cm.
As a result of such procedures, the bush bears fruit longer, and ordinary raspberry varieties acquire the qualities of remontants.
Pruning is necessary for the normal development of the shrub. Neglecting the procedure will lead to negative consequences: lack of nutrients, sunlight and the reproduction of pests.
- For the first time, annual branches are cut, reaching 1 m in medium-sized varieties and 60 cm in low-growing ones.
- Together with the upper kidney, an additional 10 cm is cut off.
- After the shoots get stronger and become overgrown with new branches up to 50 cm, remove all basal shoots.
- Weak shoots are cut off.
- Next springremove young branches and cut off the side ones by 10 cm. Together with the upper kidney, 10-15 cm are removed.
- Since the bush grows strongly, it is tied to a trellis.
Preparing raspberries for winter
Although most raspberry varieties tolerate cold well, they do require some preparation:
- First of all, attention is paid to pruning. Remove all sick, damaged, crooked branches that create excess density. Young shoots are pruned at the root, and the stems are left 1 m in height. The remaining leaves are removed.
- The earth is loosened and the last top dressing is applied - potassium-phosphorus compositions or compost.
- In cold regions mulching is necessary. It will protect the roots from frost.
- The branches are tied together and bend the bush to the ground at a height of 30 cm. For additional protection, the raspberry tree is covered with agrofibre.
When remontant raspberries bear fruit in the middle lane
Repaired raspberries are capable of continuous fruiting throughout the season. The exact timing depends on the particular variety. After the first harvest, it blooms and bears fruit again, not only on annual shoots, but also on biennial ones.
Also, remontant raspberries are highly frost-resistant and do not require careful maintenance. The entire aboveground part is cut off for the winter, so there is no need to remove the fruiting stems and bend them to the ground. This leads to another advantage - in this way pathogens and pests are removed.
To get a good harvest, lighted places are chosen for planting. It is better to plant raspberries on the south side of the buildings, and when digging, it is recommended to add humus and compost.
Important! For most varieties, with an average soil fertility, the distance between rows is 1.5-2 m, between plants - 0.7-0.9 m.Bushes with this arrangement are much better illuminated.
Now you know about the best varieties of raspberries, the intricacies of growing and caring for it. The right time for planting - in September and October... To do this, choose an illuminated place in the southern part of the fence. The plant is provided with drip irrigation, fed, cut, tied up and covered for the winter. Compliance with agricultural technology will allow you to enjoy a rich harvest of sweet berries throughout the summer season.